The last couple of days, I took my orchidarium apart and rebuilt it. There were several things I was unhappy with and I used the opportunity to make some changes as well. One thing that needed to be changed was the back. I had originally used a masonite panel with a finished surface, but that had begun to deteriorate and I needed to replace it. This time I used 3/16 inch glass. I was also not happy with the sliding doors which were of plexiglass but which always bowed with changes in temperature and humidity and which even a rigid brace had not kept straight. I replaced those also with 3/16 inch glass panels provided by my son.
The biggest change, however, was with in the height. I built it with a growing area of 30 x 52 x 30 inches (75 x 130 x 75 cm), and had never been happy with the height which I felt was cramped and which did not give me enough opportunity to move plants further from the lights. In fact, I was using only four T5 HO lamps in a fixture that held eight and thought that more space would give me opportunity to use all the lights. In rebuilding the case I added a foot to the height so that the growing area is now 42 inches (105 cm) and the additional space is proving to be a real bonus and makes working in the case and watering very much easier.
Older posts about this orchidarium can be found at these links:
http://orchidsinbloom-ron.blogspot.com/2011/12/orchidarium-changes.html
http://orchidsinbloom-ron.blogspot.com/2010/07/my-orchidarium.html
These links show the first orchidarium I built many years ago, as well as the original version of this one and give considerable information about the building of these different orchid homes.
Nice Ron. Thanks for sharing your new set up.
ReplyDeleteThanks, my friend. I really enjoying the extra space.
DeleteThanks for the sneak peek at your new luxury orchid suite!
ReplyDeleteWhat sorts of temperature and humidity to you aim for, and what sort of seasonal variation do you have in these (if any)?
Does the case have ventilation to the outside, or only really if you open the doors for watering etc? I see the fans in the corners for circulation inside.
The temperature varies from 60 nighttime to 70 daytime (occasionally 75) in the summer months and from 55 nighttime to 65 daytime in the winter. The humidity stays around 80% even with the doors open and I keep the doors partly open to provide some outside ventilation. The first case I built had two exhaust fans and I'd like to add a couple to this case, too, but just haven't gotten around to it.
DeleteRon
ReplyDeleteé na verdade o orquidário doméstico mais lindo que já ví. Fico feliz por ter conseguido realizar as alterações que gostaria.
Abraços
Thanks, Elisabete. I think it shows off the plants better than before though it was built more to grow them than for the purpose of showing them off. It certainly is handier for watering and working with the plants.
DeleteVERY, VERY NICE Ron. You and Karma really get the terrariums down. I also grow in them and have a few questions if you do not mind.
ReplyDeleteHow much water/ fert do you have build up when watering in the tank? Does this pose problems for you? If you were to do a new build from scratch, do you feel proper drainage is necessary or important thing to address?
Since you replaced the plexiglass with 3/16th glass, how were you attaching the small aluminum rivets through the glass?
Thanks again.
Hi Chad,
DeleteI have two layers of eggcrate in the bottom and when the water builds up to the top of the eggcrate I just siphon it out. That is about once a week in the winter and less often in the summer. I did put a drain in my first build years ago but never used it, so didn't put one in this. If I had it automated I would feel that drainage was more important and would work something out, but this works well for me.
I used aluminum bolts, not rivets to build the frame and the glass is simply glued into the frame with an adhesive my son uses in his work as a glazier and installer. We used a thin weatherstrip also from his work on the edges of the glass where the aluminum and glass meet in order to prevent leakage and to keep the glass away from direct contact with the aluminum.
We did not want to drill the glass, though that could have been done because it weakens the strength of the pane. I did not drill the plexiglass either when I used it, but attached it the same way. The plex was a disaster though with its ability to bend and move with temp changes and humidity changes. Wouldn't use it again.
Thank you Ron. I am encouraged to build a custom tank. I have 4 large exo-terra's that work well but are limiting in space. I would like to incorporate a cooling unit. The issue I have (as mentioned) is drilling into the glass. This is something that can be done, but I would certainly prefer not to do, especially with a custom cut piece.
ReplyDeleteI really admire not only your effort, but also your obvious success. Thanks for the tips- they save TONS of money and time with going back and forth while leaving the plants in limbo.
Keep up the good growing and great posts.
Thanks for the kind comments, Chad, and I'm happy you're able to learn from my mistakes. I wish I had more engineering ability, but the thing has evolved over the years into something that is reasonably nice in appearance and works well for my plants.
DeleteAs to the glass, if you look carefully, you can see that the horizontal aluminum sections are bolted to the inside of the perpendicular posts. The glass rests on those and is sealed top and bottom with a thin weatherstripping that my son uses in his work. It is glued to the inside of the upright with an adhesive he uses leaving room for the bolts.
Ron - I have an orchidarium with a height of 42". I am currently running 6, 40w biaxial CFL bulbs. I think this is comparable to your setup with 8, 4ft bulbs and wanted to know how long you leave your lights on for. At about 14hrs a day - I think I'm getting too much light as some of my catts are a bit yellow that I have sitting a foot of the orchidarium floor. Thanks in advance for you help. KH
ReplyDeleteI change the time the lights are on from 12-15 hours, increasing the time a half hour a month from January through June and decreasing from July through December. I don't know if that really helps but I've always done it that way and have had no problems with it. As to light intensity, I only used four bulbs until I added an extra foot to the height of the case. Before that eight bulbs were too much and I was getting a lot of yellowing especially with the Pleurothallids. They seem to be doing okay now, as do the other plants (I had them near the bottom of the bottom of the case both before and after the rebuild), but there was another factor in my troubles with yellowing. I had been using different fertilizers that are readily available and as result of an article on fertilizers changed to K-Lite (similar to the MSU formula). Light on Potassium and heavier on Magnesium and Calcium it made a dramatic difference and as far as I could tell was more of a factor in stopping the yellowing than anything else.
DeleteHello Ron,
DeleteI did a lot of research before I started a year ago with miniatures under lights. One of the sites I studied carefully was your site and the site of OrchidKarma. And now a year later a lot of my new miniatures grow and bloom well.
A thing I did was copying your light schedule, as you described it above (lights on from 12-15 hours) BUT I never asked WHY you do this. Not so clever...
So can you please tell me why?
I started to do it years ago in imitation of the changing day length some orchids receive (the change of day nearer the equator is of course negligible). I have never really noticed, however, whether it makes a difference.
DeleteRon, Thanks a lot for answering the question. So if there is hardly any difference, except mayby in my electricity-payments, I could stop with this light-cycle.
DeleteI realise I didn't introduce myself properly. My name is André and I am from the Netherlands.
Nice to meet you, Andre, and thanks for your interest in my blog. Happy you profited from it.
DeleteThanks for the feedback Ron. Hope you don't mind if I pick your brain a bit more. Since you have quite a bit of light and sometimes keep them on for 15hrs daily do find that you have to water your plants more often than a plant outside the Orchidarium? Do you mist the plants regularly or use a fogger?
ReplyDeleteI water every day and do not use a fogger. It only takes me about 15 minutes and allows me to keep a close eye on the plants. You are correct, too that this is more often than I would water outside the Orchidarium.
DeleteOHHHHH. this is lovely.you just got me into trouble now:).i need one so i will need your help..
ReplyDeletegreat site thx for sharing the info
You are welcome to whatever help I can give.
DeleteHi already order the glass to be cut.the size is 1.30m lenght, 1.00m height and 0.80m length.
ReplyDeleteMy question is the front glass.I have to put the sliding doors there as you did.So i will have to put a small glass in fron of the doors in order to keep the water in the orchidarium? How did you do that.?
If you can give me some close up pics on your front door i will really apreciate it.
The other sides will be fully closed from what i understand except the top where i will place the lighting system.I hope i get itwright.
Hi Michalis,
DeleteIf you look at the pictures on this blog post, you will see that there is an aluminum frame into which the glass is fitted. The doors as well slide within that frame. It is that frame and the bottom of the case, made out of a poly sheet, that keep the water within the case. If you give me your email address I will send some pictures of the details.
Thx a lot Ron you are very helpful .
DeleteAm a rookie to orchids but i fell in love with the plants from 3 yers ago. My email is michaliszambartas18@hotmail.com or mzambartas@argus.com.cy
I'll send some pictures now but feel free to ask more questions if you need to.
DeleteThx for your help Ron .I have order the glass already.130 cm length,1m height and 75cm depth.On the fron i will have a small glass about 20cm so i can retain the excess water and just in front of it the sliding doors with the pics you have sent me.
ReplyDeleteNow it remains to find a lighting unit for the top that fits to my mesures.
Coral life and aqualife have some interesting ideas i may go with that.48 inch lighting unit that has a base and holds on top of my glass.
Hope i will make it.I will keep you updated if you are interested so you can correct me if am wrong.
Any ideas guys on a lighting unit will be helpful.
thx
I hope to see pictures of the finished product, Michalis. As to lighting, that will have to be determined in part by the pant you are growing. Some require more light, some less. I have a fixture with eight bulbs but I can turn off four of them if I wish.
DeleteHi ron
ReplyDeleteI have around 15-20 phals and two dendrobiums at the moment that need low light. But if i make i am planing to grt some vandas and catts.
As for the lighting i have ordered just now a unit called glo t5ho 48 inch that sits on top of the aquarium with some brackets. It holds only 2 t5's and i have the option to add another one
That is probably adequate for Phals. You might need a bit more for some Catts. Are you doing anything for air movement?
Deletehttp://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Linear-Fluorescent-Lighting-48-Inch/dp/B000VK05JU
ReplyDeleteThat looks okay to me, but I don't know very much about it.
DeleteSorry didnt see this before. I am going to get 3 computer fans but am looking to find something silent.
DeleteThe fans I use are all three and four inch computer fans. The three inch are quieter than the four inch fans.
DeleteHi ron. I already think i have made the first mistake . There is no space on the top of aquarium to pass any lamp cords for the fans cause is fully closed and not removable. From what i guess your one must have something open on top of it, so you can work things out?
ReplyDeleteI have a sheet of plexiglass that separates the plants from the lights but there are openings at the corners where the connections for the fans can pass through.
DeleteOk thanx alot. And how did you attached the fan to the glass.
ReplyDeleteAnd sorry for maling too many questions. :)
The fans are hung from the wood that surrounds the very top of the case. They are up in the upper corners of the case.
DeleteThx a lot. I will not have a wooden case so i will have to attached them in another way.
ReplyDeleteHope all goes well.
DeleteHi Ron - What are some suggestions for small masdevallias that are constantly in bloom? Also, you should be informed that I now have an extensive collection of Oxyglossums thanks to your posts.
ReplyDeleteAll the best,
Kevin (Cyp_Atl)
Hi Kevin,
DeleteIf you want Masdevallias that are constantly in bloom, I'd look for smaller hybrids. Most of the species have definite bloom times, though they'll produce an occasional bloom at other times. The better smaller hybrids usually have species like glandulosa, strobelii, floribunda, decumana, etc. as one parent and I'd shy away from species with a lot of coccinea, veitchiana and other long-stemmed flowers. Even then, most Masdevallias tend to bloom in fluishes rather than throughout the year.
Hi again. The viv is coming home 2mrow. I will send you some pictures. Damn looks very big to handle.:)
ReplyDeleteEager to see the pictures.
DeleteOMG!!! Wow!!! That is surely amazing Ron. Great work, nice setup and great placement of the plants. So many in bloom at the same time. Wow.
ReplyDeleteThanks, my friend. Appreciate the comments.
DeleteHi Ron. Thanks for posting so much info on your build. I remember reading the original article you did 25 years ago and that inspired me to build mt first vivarium. Nor as nice as yours by a long shot! I have built several over the years but since they lived in unfinished basements fit and finish was not an issue. I am thinking of building one for intermediate growers and since this will be upstairs I think I will go with aluminum like you did. I have been researching aluminum stock and I was wondering what thickness you use. My supplier has 1/8th inch, 3/16ths and 1/4. I plan to use plate glass so need enough strength and rigidity. Thanks again
ReplyDeleteBill
Hi Bill! Nice to hear from you and nice to know I was an inspiration. In answer to your question, the uprights on my case are 3/16th aluminum and all the cross pieces 1/8th. I think that was the right choice, too, since the uprights needed just a bit more rigidity than the cross pieces. On my original case, if I remember it was all 1/8th, but that case was not as tall as this one and I did not use glass in that case which is, of course, substantially heavier.
DeleteExcellent thanks very much, Ron
ReplyDeleteYou are welcome, Bill.
DeleteHi Ron -
ReplyDeleteIn photo 8 of 9, what is the pink Dendrobium to the right of the agathodaemonis?
Thanks!
Kevin
Hi Kevin. Nice to hear from you. The plant you asked about is Dendrobium seranicum. I have a couple of these, one a darker and one a lighter pink.
DeleteAn additional note in the hope you see this, Kevin: I am interested in the Dendrobium you mentioned, but cannot find a way to contact you. My Yahoo account is long closed and I cannot find a way to contact you on your blog.
Hi Ron,
ReplyDeleteI've recently fell in love with orchids, so I don't know much about different breeds (lightning requirements and such). I just stumbled across your orchidarium and love it. I need to build it.
I want to ask you about steps for building this, materials required, and also orchid info in general. Would it be possible to email you?
Hi Binxer. Would be more than happy to email you and answer whatever questions I can. You can email me at this address (without the spaces ronaldhhanko @ netzero.net.
DeleteA labor of love and the orchids sure do reward you with beautiful blossoms year 'round.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Fizzie. I appreciate the visit and kind comments.
DeleteHi Ron -
ReplyDeleteWhat is the rather large Trisetella behind the potted pink cuthbertsonii? The one with the long leaves.
Thanks,
Kevin
It's Trisetella gemmata, Kevin. You want a piece?
DeleteI would love to have a piece. :-)
DeleteYou want it now or in the spring?
ReplyDeleteWhichever is most convenient for you. No rush. I really appreciate it.
DeleteBy the way, I got an interesting new plant from Andy recently. Dendrobium hasseltii "Mini". It's the same size as Dendrobium "Illusion", but has large pink/purple flowers. The standard hasseltii is supposed to be fragrant, so I'm hoping this mini one is, as well. :-)
Here is a photo from his website. You have to call or email to order it.
Deletehttp://andysorchids.com/pictureframe.asp?pic=images/Species/3482med.jpg&PicId=3482&PicNam=Dendrobium%20-%20species%20%28mini%20hasseltii%29
I had something else I needed to send you, didn't I? And I have an Epi. quisayanum that's a bit too large for me if you want it. I have that Dendrobium (I think I got it from Andy) but it has never bloomed for me. I must be doing something wrong.
DeleteI'll probably send the plants tomorrow. Then it's taken care of.
DeleteI can't recall anything else you were going to send. I would love a piece of the Epi. Thanks! My hasselti hasn't bloomed yet. I've only had it a couple months, but it is growing like crazy. I'll let you know when/if it blooms.
ReplyDeleteI'll let you know when I send the plants.
DeleteTerrific. Thanks!
DeleteAs usual I can't find your address, Kevin. If you don't want to post it here, email me at ronaldhhanko @ outlook.com (my old netzero account is closed).
DeleteRon, your orchidarium awesome! Great job! Please tell me the fans run continuously?
ReplyDeleteThey do run continuously, my friend, and thanks for looking and commenting.
DeleteSplendid view ! Just found the blog and i am really impressed. I'm not a pro when it comes to growing orchids but I love them so when i saw your orchidarium I just fell in love. Kind regards !
ReplyDeleteThanks for the visit, my friend.
DeleteYou're so lucky you know living next to these beauties. I'm from Romania and here I can' t find anything else other than hybrid Phals. And even if I want to order they are so expensive because they are coming from Holland.
ReplyDeleteYes, we do indeed have a lot to choose from here. Whatever one's interests there are vendors to supply those interests. Even the grocery stores and home supply stores sell a large variety of orchids - not just only hybrid Phals.
DeleteHi Ron - Have you ever had an issue with slugs in your orchidarium? If so, how did you cope with them?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Kevin
I had an issue with some orchids outside the orchidarium but not inside. These were plants that had been outside for the summer and I assume had picked up the slugs then. I used a slug bait and watched them carefully at night (with a flashlight) and eventually they disappeared.
DeleteGreat, thanks! I think I'll have to do the same thing.
DeleteHope you get the buggers.
DeleteHi Ron, your orchidarium looks very nice! I am new to this and also new to orchids and I was wondering how you give your orchids their winter rest inside the orchidarium. For me it seems the climate is always more or less the same and beside that I understood that some orchids need a cool winter rest and others don't.
ReplyDeleteI was reading about orchids since I got my first one which I too back from a visit to my family in law in Meghalaya India. This blog is a great informational help for me thanks!
Hi Jacob,
DeleteMost of the orchids I grow do not need a winter rest and the few that do I just hold back on watering. You are correct that the climate is always about the same, perhaps slightly higher temperatures in the summer, but that does not bother these plants.
I have seen many high-tech wardiancases in internet with expensive automatized toys, but your vivarium is very inspirational! i think one of the beautiful things about growing orchids, is to have the opportunity to water the plants manually and have a closer care.
ReplyDeletethanks for sharing your experience!
Thanks, Emmanuel. I wholeheartedly agree. I enjoy the "hands-on experience.
Delete